Next-day appointments
Call or book today and we'll do our best to get a pro to you tomorrow.
Do not light another fire until this has been looked at.
The short answer
Nine times in ten the fireplace is fine and the flue is not.
Why is my fireplace smoking is almost always a draft question rather than a fireplace one. Smoke rises because hot gas is lighter than the cold air around it, and anything that interrupts that — a blockage, a flue too wide or too short, a cold flue that has not warmed, or a house pulling harder than the chimney — sends it back into the room instead. A brief puff while the flue warms is normal. Smoke still entering the room after fifteen minutes is a fault, and it should stop you using the fireplace until it is found, because whatever is holding the smoke back is holding carbon monoxide back with it.
Fifteen minutes is the test

A puff at lighting while the flue warms is expected. Smoke still coming after the fire is established is not.
Before we get there
None of this fixes it. All of it stops the problem getting more expensive between now and the visit.
Put the fire out. Whatever is stopping the smoke leaving is stopping carbon monoxide leaving too.
Check the damper is fully open, not just partly. A seized damper that looks open often is not.
Open a window in the same room and see if it clears. If it does, the house is starving the fire of air.
Turn off any extractor fan, range hood or dryer and try again. Those can out-pull a chimney easily.
Look up past the damper with a torch for nesting material or heavy creosote before relighting.
Work out which is yours
Ordered by how often it turns out to be the answer, so you can stop reading once you recognise yours.

Nesting material, debris or a fallen brick narrowing the passage. The most common single answer, and the one that changes fastest between seasons.

Rusted part-open, or a broken handle that moves without moving the plate. Worth checking by eye with a torch rather than by feel at the lever.

A tight modern house with an extractor running pulls harder than the flue. If cracking a window fixes it, this is your answer and the fix is a supply of combustion air.

A quarter inch of buildup around a flue is a meaningful reduction in area. Sweeping restores the draft and removes the fire risk in one visit.

The flue area should be roughly a tenth of the fireplace opening, and the stack needs height above the roofline to draw. Both are design faults rather than wear, and both are fixable.

The chamber above the firebox should be smooth and tapered so smoke accelerates into the flue. Left rough by the original mason, it trips the smoke on its way up. Parging fixes it.
What actually fixes it
Fall Special
Call or book today and we'll do our best to get a pro to you tomorrow.
Anything that needs attention is shown to you and explained in plain words.
If something needs fixing, you get the price in writing first. Saying no costs nothing.
Good to know

Founded by Ryan Carter in 2019. Every page you read here is reviewed by Ethan Miller, our chimney specialist. A written estimate before any work, and the findings in writing whether or not anything needs doing.
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