Next-day appointments
Call or book today and we'll do our best to get a pro to you tomorrow.
The short answer
The stove is the cheap part. The liner and the clearances are the install.
Two things decide whether a wood stove installation is any good, and neither is the stove. Clearances: every appliance is listed with minimum distances to combustible walls and floors, and going inside them is what scorches plaster, voids the listing and gives an insurer a reason to decline. And the liner: a modern stove vents at a lower temperature into a flue built for an open fire, so an oversized old flue runs cool, condenses and packs creosote fast. A correctly sized stainless liner is not an upsell on this job, it is most of it.
Too close to the wall

Scorched plaster behind a stove means the clearance was wrong from day one. It is also the first thing an insurer looks at after a fire.
Fall Special
Call or book today and we'll do our best to get a pro to you tomorrow.
Anything that needs attention is shown to you and explained in plain words.
If something needs fixing, you get the price in writing first. Saying no costs nothing.
Do you have this problem?

The clearance was wrong from the start. Heat is reaching combustible material, and the fix is either moving the stove or fitting a listed shield, not paint.

The most common version of this job. The masonry flue was sized for an open fire and is far too big for a stove, so it needs lining down to the appliance's diameter.

Almost always an oversized or uninsulated flue. Gases cool, condense, and coat the liner. It is an installation fault presenting as a maintenance problem.

Flue too large, too short, or too cold. All three are decided at install, which is why the survey matters more than the appliance choice.

A stove cannot be fitted to a breached flue. The level 2 camera scan comes before the quote, because what it finds can double the job.

The existing liner is coming apart. It will be relined as part of the install, and it is better to know that before the stove is ordered.
How we work
The same four steps every time, whatever the repair turns out to be.

A look at the crown, cap, flashing and exterior masonry, then the flue, damper and firebox — with a camera where the job calls for a level 2 scan. Whatever needs work gets shown to you, not just described.

Scope, price and what is not included, in writing. Nothing starts until you approve it, and an emergency is not a reason to skip this step.

Matched materials and the manufacturer's spec, not whatever is on the van. Drop cloths down, and the room left as it was found.

A second scan after the work, and written findings you can keep, hand to an inspector, or send to an insurer.
What it covers
Not every job on this list is equally urgent, so they are ordered that way. A cracked liner stops you using the fireplace tonight; waterproofing can wait for a dry week.
The job — most urgent first
What it involves
On site
Insulated stainless run the full height at the diameter the stove's manual specifies. On an old masonry flue this is the majority of the work and the majority of the cost.
On site: 1–2 days
Measured to the appliance listing, with listed shields where the room will not give the distance. Reduced clearances only count when the shield is a listed assembly, not sheet metal on spacers.
On site: About a day
Built to the R-value and the footprint the manual requires, including the projection in front of the door. Tiles laid straight on floorboards are not a hearth pad.
On site: About a day
Where there is no chimney at all: twin-wall insulated flue out through wall or roof, with the height and termination that makes it draw. More work than a fireplace conversion and often a better result.
On site: 2–3 days
A sealed insert with a full liner. Turns an open fire that sends most of its heat up the flue into something that actually heats the room.
On site: 1–2 days
First burn, draft check, and the paperwork — appliance listing, liner warranty, and the install certificate an insurer will ask for. Get it on the day, not a year later.
On site: Add an hour
Times are for the work itself, not for scheduling. Masonry needs roughly 40°F to cure properly, which is what limits this work in a northern winter rather than whether a crew is free.

Founded by Ryan Carter in 2019. Every page you read here is reviewed by Ethan Miller, our chimney specialist. A written estimate before any work, and the findings in writing whether or not anything needs doing.
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